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When we decided to move our family off our 160-acre ranch in central BC, the thing that worried me most was not packing the house or selling the equipment. It was the garden.
Six years of perennial plants. Haskaps that fruit before anything else in the yard. Comfrey that feeds the apple trees without being asked. Raspberries that have taken over in the best possible way. Plants we chose carefully for our cold climate and that took years to establish.
There was no way I was leaving all of it behind.
With about 8 weeks before the move, I spent a long day taking as many cuttings and root divisions as I could from our forest garden. This was my first time doing this on any real scale, and I want to share exactly what I did, what I learned, and what I would do differently. Whether you are moving, expanding a garden, or simply want more of a plant you already love, propagating perennials is one of the most satisfying skills you can develop.
You can follow along with the step-by-step process in the video below:
Understanding Softwood vs. Semi-Hardwood Cuttings
The first thing to understand when taking cuttings is that the age of the wood matters.
- Softwood cuttings come from the newest, most tender growth. These root quickly but wilt easily if humidity is not maintained.
- Semi-hardwood cuttings come from growth that has firmed up slightly but is still from the current season. This is the best choice for most summer propagation of shrubs.
- Hardwood cuttings come from last season’s woody growth. These are slower to root but work for some species in late fall or winter.
For most of the shrubs I was working with, I was looking for this year’s new wood that had started to firm up a little. The colour is lighter than last year’s wood, the stem is thinner and more flexible, and it still has a bit of give without being floppy.
- Take cuttings 4 to 6 inches long
- Aim for at least 2 to 3 nodes (the points where leaves attach)
- Remove all leaves from the bottom two-thirds of the cutting
- Leave 1 to 2 small leaves at the top; trim large leaves in half to reduce moisture loss
Propagating Elderberries and Aronia
Elderberry is considered one of the easiest shrubs to start from cuttings. I took both semi-hardwood pieces and a few softwood ones, trimming the flowers off the tips so the plant’s energy goes to rooting rather than fruiting.
Aronia (chokeberry) is a slow grower. It took six or seven years for mine to reach a productive harvest, so I was careful to get a few cuttings even though I did not want to take much from the plant.
For both:
- Use the same method as haskaps
- Remove flowers or developing berries so all energy goes toward root development
- Keep the rooting medium evenly moist but not waterlogged
Taking Root Divisions: Comfrey and Rhubarb
Root divisions are more reliable than cuttings for some perennials and do not require rooting hormone at all.
Comfrey root cuttings:
I grow the Bocking 14 cultivar, which produces sterile seed and does not spread aggressively. Its roots are surprisingly easy to work with. A 3-inch piece of healthy root planted a couple of inches down in potting soil will grow into a new plant.
- Dig carefully around the base of the plant
- Look for thick, white or cream-coloured roots
- Cut into 3 to 4 inch pieces
- Plant each piece 2 inches deep in potting soil and water well
- Leave the leaves on if possible; even if they die back, they give the plant energy to establish roots
Rhubarb divisions:
Established rhubarb clumps can be dug and divided. I found that plants growing in competition with heavy comfrey were smaller and struggling, making them good candidates for moving. Each division should have at least one healthy bud or crown visible.
Dig generously around the root ball, shake off excess soil, and cut the crown into sections. Plant at the same depth as the original, water well, and be patient.
Setting Up the Right Environment for Rooting
The two most important factors for cuttings to root are consistent moisture and humidity.
- Use a mix of perlite and peat moss, not regular potting soil, which can become waterlogged and compacted
- Cover pots with clear plastic bags, cut plastic bottles, or humidity domes immediately after planting
- Avoid direct sun, especially in summer or during a heat wave
- Check moisture every one to two days and mist or lightly water as needed
- You should have a good sense of which cuttings are taking within two weeks
Tip: If your leaves dry out and die completely at the top, that does not necessarily mean the cutting has failed. Give it another week or two before pulling it out.
Printable Checklist: Propagating Perennials from Cuttings and Divisions
Supplies to gather:
- Sharp, clean pruners or scissors
- Rooting hormone powder
- Perlite and peat moss (50/50 mix)
- Pots or containers with good drainage
- Clear plastic bags or humidity domes
- Pencil or chopstick for making planting holes
Taking cuttings:
- Take 4 to 6 inch semi-hardwood cuttings
- Remove lower leaves, keep 1 to 2 small leaves at the tip
- Dip in rooting hormone; tap off excess
- Make a planting hole before inserting the cutting
- Cover with humidity tent immediately
- Place in bright indirect light
- Check moisture every 1 to 2 days
- Check for rooting progress at 2 weeks
Root divisions:
- Dig carefully around the root clump
- Cut roots into 3 to 4 inch sections (comfrey) or divide crown sections (rhubarb)
- Plant at correct depth and water well
- Keep consistently moist while establishing
If you are building your own perennial garden and would love to be part of a community of people doing the same, come join us in the LMR Community. We hold live Q&A sessions, monthly challenges, and share resources that help you grow more of your own food.